Walking in circles

Before setting off on the last of our New Zealand Great Walks, we had a day in Te Anau to rest up, do admin (i.e. emails and blogging) and eat as many bao buns as we could. We'd discovered a food truck tucked behind the library which made fresh boa buns, aka Chinese steamed dumplings, stuffed with a myriad of fillings, my favourite being soft-shelled crab. As we had 2 days of freeze-dried food ahead of us, it was vital we consumed as many of these steamed bundles of joy as possible in the little time we had left. Day 1: beech forest Unlike all the other Great Walks, the Kepler Track is circular, usually completed over 4 days, unless you're young and fit (which we are neither), so we drove to the start/end car park early on Wednesday morning. We were lucky with another fine day and we headed off along the trail around the shores of Lake Te Anau, passing a few camping beaches, although so riddled with sandflies we couldn't imagine why anyone would camp...