 |
| Cotopaxi |
We were picked up at 7am, to be driven out of Quito to the Hacienda Alegria, where we would meet our fellow riders and start our 4 day horse trek. Hacienda Alegria is a working farm with 70 horses, owned and run by the welcoming Gabriel Espinosa and his wife, Paty. Gabriel guides multi-day treks through the Central Highlands of Ecuador. He has lived here for over 60 years and knows the country, and horses, like the back of his suntanned hands.
 |
| Me and my Prince |
At the hacienda, we were kitted out with chaps and hats, met Janet and Veronique, two US and French friends who met on a riding holiday 10 years ago, and were served a lovely breakfast in this old, grand hacienda. Then we were bundled into a car with Guido, our other horse-hand or 'chagra' (the Ecuadorian equivalent of a gaucho). An hour later we pulled over in a field and met our steeds; 6 of them with 2 spare. Mine was a sweet white gelding called Princip, or Prince. We had western saddles and saddlebags for whatever we need during the day, plus ponchos and full chaps for when it rains. All our other stuff goes ahead to our destination in the car.
Our first day took us along 33km of dirt tracks and
paths past sweeping views of Cotopaxi volcano and up and down mountainsides and ridges. At times the trail was so steep I couldn't believe we'd make it up, other times it was flatter, but with long drops of 50 to 100m down to one side. Best not to look and keep the horse close to the hillside of the trail! As we rode up, we had fantastic views of the valleys below, the canyons and the plateaux on the top. And almost every inch of it, even the steepest slopes, was farmed. Potatoes, corn, lupin (for the edible seeds) peas, beans - it was endless. We passed
through tiny hamlets, the dogs barking at our heels while adults and children waved with calls of 'buenos dias!' After 4 hours we stopped for a picnic lunch. Four children, on their way home from school, joined us, playing and eating the snacks Gabriel shared with them. It was super hot - both humans and horses were tired, but what we didn't realise was that we were only half way to our destination. 4 more hours of up and down hills, the horses were sweaty and we all had back, knee and bum ache when we finally reached Hacienda San Jose in Sigchos as night fell.
 |
| Hacienda San Jose |
 |
| Resting at the cheese factory |
The horses were put out to grass and we all jumped into the jacuzzi to sooth our aches and pains. Dinner and a beer and we all hit the sack early. We had another big day ahead tomorrow.
Wednesday was an early start as we had 40kms to cover - even more than yesterday. We rode out at 8.30am in the sunshine; wide tracks through pasture and forest, the riding was relaxed and easier than the steep narrow trails of yesterday. A mid morning stop at a cheese-maker gave the horses a short rest and lunch wasn't far beyond at a small restaurant with
incredible views down the valley. However, it all changed after lunch. A river crossing followed by a kilometer along an old Inca trail had us all off our horses, leading them safely along a narrow mountainside path, with sheer drop-offs to the left and a rock face to the right. In places, when we came across a gully, the path was worn or washed away, and we gingerly, but quickly, moved on over the loose rocks. Finally we
 |
| Quilotoa Crater |
reached a larger track, remounted and moved on. And on. And up. And on! It seemed never-ending and as we climbed and it got colder, we all wished this trek would end... And then suddenly, we turned a corner to the most incredible sight: Quilotoa Lake - a 250m deep lake in the crater of a volcano. Deep blue, with super steep sides all around, it's 2km across and stunning. I have never seen anything like it before.
Unfortunately we were on one side of the crater ridge and tonight's hotel was on the opposite side. So, tired, cold (both us and the horses), we started off around the ridge. It would have been fine if it was flat but no. Steep inclines, up down, rocky and with 100's of meter drop-offs on both sides. Certainly not for the faint-hearted! Looking to the side scared the hell out of me, so I looked ahead, whispering words of encouragement to Prince. As sure-footed as these horses are, they were tired and at 3500m above sea level, they were feeling the altitude. But they are brilliant creatures and 2 hours of perilous climbing later, we arrived in Quilotoa, a village on the edge of the crater rim. Totally exhausted, we collapsed in the slightly damp, rustic hotel. Food and a few stretches were all we could manage before crashing into bed.
 |
| Selfie at the crater |
Day 3 dawned and Charlotte wasn't feeling great. At 3900m she was headache-y and nauseous. I, on the other hand, and somewhat surprisingly, was fine. Luckily we would be heading back to lower elevation today.
 |
| In the canyon |
It was a beautiful clear day - the bluest of skies - making the lake a wonderful deep azure colour. We set off along the rim, steep views down to the lake, stopping as we came to a lakeside lodging with a lookout over the water. Our last lake group selfie taken, we headed down and away from the crater. Following a trail through pasture, Gabriel suddenly shouts back 'OK, we're going into the canyon. Watch your knees and hands.' and down we went. Huge slabs of rocks on both sides, the horses maneuvered us through gaps only just wide enough to fit us, while we pushed off any rocks getting too close for comfort. I've done this kind of thing on skies before, but never on a horse. Very exciting!
 |
| Guido |
The canyon slowly opened up to a gully and we came out into more undulating scenery. Stopping at a local saddler, we met his family and admired the lovely horse tack. Despite the amazing quality of his work, with intricate detailing, his entire family live and sleep in his workshop - they are not wealthy people. I only wish I had a need for a machete or bridle!
 |
| The Saddler's wife |
On we rode. More villages, dogs and children on their way home from school at lunchtime. We picnicked on a basketball court while the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. Thankfully we only had a couple more hours of riding after lunch to Isinlivi, where we were to stay at the delightful Llullu Llama hostel and their lovely wood-burner fired chalets.
We de-robed the horses in a lush field, most of them instantly going for a roll in the grass. They don't get wash-downs or brush-downs her, so it's a bit more DIY. For the humans, a hot tub and lasagna and really comfy beds.
Our last day's riding was by far the most relaxed. Having done 8 to 10 hours in the saddle each of the previous days, we would be finishing in around lunchtime. I changed horses, onto the lovely huge Rosalito, giving Prince a rest day. Our trail took us back past the hotel (to a big wave off - it seems that a group of 6 riders causes quite a stir) and through lots of quiet pastures and hillsides. No dramatic inclines or drop-offs today, but we were all quite glad to have a day of gentle riding. We finished off with a few kilometers of cantering. Rossy has a lovely slow rolling gait and as he doesn't trot much, Guido showed me how to get him from a paso (a very fast walk) into a canter without any bouncy trotting at all. I learnt something new - I've never ridden horses that paso before.
 |
| Grandkids chaps at the Hacienda Alegria |
We met the horse trailer around 1pm, unsaddled the horses and prepared them for their journey home in socks and tail bandages. An hour later we arrived back at Hacienda Alegria, dusty, dirty, tired and with all sorts of aches and pains, but having had the most wonderful 4 days on our beautiful, and beautifully trained steeds. Lunch, a visit to ALL 70 horses and a tour, by Gabriel, of his cheese cave (we thought he meant cellar, but no - it really was a cave, replete with resident bat), and we were desperate for a shower and rest in our magnificent room.
 |
| Hacienda Alegria, and Oreo, the border collie |
Dinner was held in the dining room; Gabriel, his lovely wife Paty, the four of us and an American who was on a year of travel, riding her way around the world almost. Great stories of Gabriel and Paty's family history and the farm, and we hit our very large beds shortly after 9.
We head back to Quito in the morning - what an amazing start we've had to our Ecuadorian adventure!
Our first day took us along 33km of dirt tracks and
through tiny hamlets, the dogs barking at our heels while adults and children waved with calls of 'buenos dias!' After 4 hours we stopped for a picnic lunch. Four children, on their way home from school, joined us, playing and eating the snacks Gabriel shared with them. It was super hot - both humans and horses were tired, but what we didn't realise was that we were only half way to our destination. 4 more hours of up and down hills, the horses were sweaty and we all had back, knee and bum ache when we finally reached Hacienda San Jose in Sigchos as night fell.
Comments
Post a Comment